Seam Puckering Problem in Garments
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (CU)
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
A.M.C.S Textile Ltd (AEPZ)
Seam Puckering Problem:
The gathering effect of fabric along seam line is known as seam puckering problem. It is the most common problem of the garments manufacturer which sewing the garments. The problem is not the only concern of garments manufacturer, but also a concern of fabric finisher, sewing machine manufacturer and sewing thread manufacturer. That’s why, today I would like to discuss about the seam puckering problem in garments.
Factor Responsibility for Seam Puckering Problem:
Factor responsibility for seam puckering problem are as follow-
1. Weave / Construction of fabric
2. Types of fabric
3. Types of sewing thread
4. Types of sewing machine
5. Tension of sewing thread
6. Stretch applied on fabric
7. Shrinkage of sewing thread and fabric
8. Feeding mechanism
9. Stitching condition
10. Sewing thread behavior
Types of Seam Puckering in Garments:
There are four types of seam puckering problem in garments industry. They are-
1. Inherent puckering
2. Feeding puckering
3. Tension puckering
4. Sewing thread shrinkage puckering
1. Inherent Puckering:
The main cause of inherent puckering is structured jamming of fabric yarn. In this type of fabric, displacement of the fabric occurs due to the insertion of sewing thread. The severity of this problem depends on the closeness of the weave or knit, fabric characteristics and fabric finishes. Natural fibers are less porn to structural jamming than synthetic fibers. Its severity is also directly related to sewing thread size and stitch density. The chain stitch seam is less prone to seam puckering problem than lock stitch type of seam. In the case of puckering problem due to structural jamming, some improvement can be made by using finer needle, finer sewing thread, reducing the stitch density, sewing slightly at biased angle etc.
2. Feeding Puckering:
This type of seam puckering occurs for the differential feeding of top and bottom plies of fabric. There are mainly two reason for feeding puckering-
- One is limitation of drop feed mechanism to transport both layer of fabrics at seam speed.
- Another is the smoothness of fabric surface which the ply shifting of fabric layers.
3. Tension Puckering:
Unnecessary high tension of sewing thread are the main causes of this type of seam pucker. The stretch of fabric which is applied on fabric by operation is also responsible for this pucker. Tension puckering is related by the following ways-
- By shifting the sewing thread tension is perfect as possible.
- By proper machine setting.
4. Sewing Thread Shrinkage puckering:
Sewing thread shrinkage puckering problem occurs when sewing thread shrinkage more than fabric. This problem can be risible when the fabric is wetted or washed or ironed with the seam. Normally this problem arises in the case of cotton sewing thread. In this case it is better to polymer sewing thread ore core spun sewing thread to reduce puckering problem. Other hands, in case of cotton sewing thread the stitch should be kept slightly loose shrink for sewing thread.