5 Steps to Minimize the Fabric Wastage during Cutting
Sanjeev Tiwari Sonu
Merchant at TCNS Ltd Noida
B-tech from U.P.T.U. University,
Lucknow, UP, India.
Cutting means to cut out the pieces of the garment from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting pattern or marker. To make whole garments, cutting is essential. Usually, the marker is applied to the top ply of a lay. The main purpose of cutting is to separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the measurement of the marker for the purpose of garments making according to the pattern pieces.
How to Minimize the Wastage during Fabric Cutting:
The minimize steps of wastage during fabric cutting are given below-
- Reduce the Ends of ply losses
- Minimize the Selvedge losses
- Reduce the Loss of fabric ends
- Careful about Fabric Purchase
- Identify Fabric defects
1. Reduce the Ends of Ply Losses:
- Some allowance is needed in the end of each piece of fabric during fabric spreading because of limitation of the utilized machine for fabric extensibility and fabric spreading and this allowance is usually 2″ in each end and on each ply 4″ fabric wastage.
- This wastage varies with the durability of the fabric.
- This wastage can be reduced by observing and controlling carefully of how much allowance need for various fabric.
- Moreover, this wastage may be reduced for lager marker length and increase for smaller marker length.
2. Minimize the Selvedge Losses:
- Each fabric has two selvedges along its wide. Mostly, selvedge part is cut out. The amount of cut out is considered 3% (approximately) along with wide.
- The amount of fabric wide to be used depends on the quality of selvedge, width, flatness and alignment of selvedge.
- The more fabric width, the less will be fabric wastage.
3. Reduce the Loss of Fabric Ends:
- Moreover seen that fabric length varies than fabric multiple of lay length. As a result, during the preparation of fabric lay the last or end remnant of fabric ro1l are separated by cutting.
- Fabric wastage increased for this splice or remnant.
- The lager fabric length in a roll, the lowest wastage by identification of splice in marker and proper controlling and by reusing of the remnant.
4. Careful about Fabric Purchase:
- Fabric length is identified by fabric manufacturer and supplier on fabric roll.
- Some timeless fabric is wound on a roll than identified length. So it should be measured by fabric purchase.
5. Identify Fabric Defects:
- There are two defects as group shading and running shading.
- If group shading is present in fabric it must be rejected.
- But if running shading is present, the fabric can be used by marker only with the better side of the fabric.