Classification of Seam Properties
S M Fijul Kabir (Mahin)
B.Sc. in Textile Engineer (CU)
Specialized in Apparel Merchandising
Lecturer, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Generally, the line of joining fabric is called Seam. A seam is a joint consisting of sequence of stitches uniting two or more pieces of material and is used for assembling parts in the production of sewn items. Different parts of fabrics are attached together using several processes such as fusion, gluing, sewing, stapling, etc. Seam can also be defined as the application of a series of stitches to hold several thicknesses of materials.
Factors of Seam Properties:
The following are the factors of which seam properties depends on:
- Seam Type: This is a particular configuration of fabric as required.
- Stitch Type: It is most important point which deals with a particular configuration of thread in the fabric.
- Feed Mechanism of sewing machine: This is the mechanism by which the fabric moves past the needles and enable a succession of stitches to be formed.
- Needle size and Type: The needle size and type should be chosen according to the seam properties required.
- Thread size and Type: The thread size and type should be chosen according to the seam properties required, i.e. flame proof, water proof etc.
To make the seam perfect, following are the requirements:
A. Seam Performance
B. Seam Appearance
A. Seam Performance:
Performance means the achievement of the following factors
1. Seam Strength:
Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than fabric strength, then fabric may be break due to unexpected force to the fabric.
Seam strength depends on :
- Strength of thread used;
- Unbalance stitch;
- Stitch density;
- Seam type;
- Size of stitches;
2. Seam Elasticity:
Seam elasticity should be equal or higher than fabric elasticity. Otherwise, seam may be opened by breaking of sewn thread in seam. Some fabrics or garments may be stretched of 100% or more. Seam elasticity varies if the fabric is knitted or woven.
Durability of seam should be equal or higher than that of fabric. A seam must be durable, long lasting and not abrade (scrape) or wear easily during everyday use of the garment including all necessary laundering.
The seam of the garments must be comfortable and do not create any problem while using.
Security is closely connected with durability. A seam need to be secure and not to unravel or broke during everyday use of the garment.
B. Seam Appearance:
Seam appearance should be:
- Defect free stitch;
- Defect free seam;
- Expected, i.e. no fold of fabric along the fabric;
- Free from seam pucker;