Classification of Seam
S M Fijul Kabir (Mahin)
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (CU)
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
Lecturer, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Seam Types or Classes:
A formal description of the configuration of a seam is called seam type. Seam may be hundred types and these types are classified into six main classes. Also, in present time two more classes are used.
The following are the 8 classes of seam:
- Seam Class-1: Super Imposed Seam
- Seam Class-2: Lapped Seam
- Seam Class-3: Bound Seam
- Seam Class-4: Flat Seam
- Seam Class-5: Decorative Seam
- Seam Class-6: Edge Neatening
- Seam Class-7: Applied Sea
- Seam Class-8: Enclosed Seam
Seam Class-1 (Super Imposed Seam):
- This is most ordinary used seam.
- This type of seam is formed by correctly placing the ends of the fabric on the other ends of the fabric and sewn.
- Generally the seam ends are in the same direction.
- Different types of stitch are used to form this type of seam.
- Seam strength may be changed.
- This seam can be used for joining the fabric and neatening the edge.
Seam Class-2 (Lapped Seam):
- Simplest seam is formed by lapping of two pieces of fabric.
- Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction and overlapping one ends on other.
- Uses of this seam is very less because the threads draw off from the fabric edge and create problem.
- The seam thread may be damaged due to frictional resistance.
- Seam strength is higher.
- Possibility of seam slippage is very less.
- Seam thickness increased.
- Twin needle sewn machine is used to prepare seam.
Seam Class-3 (Bound Seam):
- Two fabrics are required.
- Here one edge of the fabric is bounded by the other fabric.
- The binder fabric may be of different colors.
- Widely used.
- Can be applied for both functional and decorative purposes.
- Folder must be required to produce bound seam.
- Mostly used for knit fabric than woven fabric.
Seam Class-4 (Flat Seam):
- Two or more fabric ends are joined without overlapping.
- Seam can be made with the gap of the ends of the fabric for decorative purposes.
- Generally twin needle sewing m/c is used to produce this type of seam where continuous binding can be made by covering thread between needle threads
- Seam thickness is comparatively less.
- Zigzag stitch causes sufficient stretch for knit fabrics.
- Neat join forms.
- Before sewing, Edge should be cleaned.
Seam Class-5 (Decorative Seam):
- This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in one or more layer of fabric.
- Multi-needle sewing machine is used.
- This type of seam is called decorative stitching.
- This seam is produced and used to increase the beauty or decorative value of fabrics.
Seam Class-6 (Edge Neatening):
- This type seam is used to bind the edge of fabric, so that thread cannot be drawn off.
- Various stitches are used in this type of seam.
- It can be made by over lock machine.
- If folder is used, the seam can be made easily.
Seam Class-7 (Applied Seam):
- Similar to lapped seam (Seam Class-2), but the joined component is extended limited on both sides from sewn line.
- This is used for joining of different parts of garments with additional or extra materials such as lace, elastic braid, elastic etc.
- Multi needle sewing machine and folder is used to produce this seam. It will be easier this function is involved.
Seam Class-8 (Enclosed Seam):
- Mainly one piece of fabric is used.
- The edges of fabric are sewn by folding in various ways.
- Very used of folder to make the seam.
- Seam is made in one time completed by twin needle machine and folder.