Seam Puckering Problem in Garment: Causes and Preventive Measures

Seam Puckering Problem in Garments: Causes and Preventive Measures

Noor Ahmed Raaz
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
Owner and Editor in Chief Textile Merchandising
Asst. Prof., Department of Textile Engineering
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: textilemerchandising1@gmail.com

Seam Puckering:

The gathering effect of fabric along the seam line is known as the seam puckering problem. It is the most common problem of the garment manufacturer who sews the garments. The problem is not the only concern of garment manufacturers but also a concern of fabric finishers, sewing machine manufacturers and sewing thread manufacturers. That’s why today I would like to discuss the seam puckering problem in garments.

Factor Responsibility for Seam Puckering Problem:

Factors responsible for the seam puckering problem are as follows-

1. Weave / Construction of fabric

2. Types of fabric

3. Types of sewing thread

4. Types of sewing machines

5. Tension of sewing thread

6. Stretch applied on fabric

7. Shrinkage of sewing thread and fabric

8. Feeding mechanism

9. Stitching condition

10. Sewing thread behavior

Types of Seam Puckering in Garments:

There are four types of seam puckering problems in the garments industry. They are-

1. Inherent puckering

2. Feeding puckering

3. Tension puckering

4. Sewing thread shrinkage puckering

1. Inherent Puckering:

The main cause of inherent puckering is the structured jamming of fabric yarn. In this type of fabric, displacement of the fabric occurs due to the insertion of sewing thread. The severity of this problem depends on the closeness of the weave or knit, fabric characteristics and fabric finishes. Natural fibers are less porn to structural jamming than synthetic fibers. Its severity is also directly related to sewing thread size and stitch density. The chain stitch seam is less prone to seam puckering problems than the lock stitch type of seam. In the case of puckering problems due to structural jamming, some improvement can be made by using a finer needle, finer sewing thread, reducing the stitch density, sewing slightly at a biased angle, etc.

2. Feeding Puckering:

This type of seam puckering occurs for the differential feeding of top and bottom plies of fabric. There are mainly two reasons for feeding puckering-

• One is a limitation of the drop feed mechanism to transport both layers of fabric at seam speed.
• Another is the smoothness of the fabric surface, which is the ply shifting of fabric layers.

3. Tension Puckering:

Unnecessary high tension of sewing thread are the main cause of this type of seam pucker. The stretch of fabric that is applied on the fabric by the operation is also responsible for this pucker. Tension puckering is related in the following ways-

• By shifting the sewing thread, the tension is as perfect as possible.
• By proper machine setting.

4. Sewing Thread Shrinkage Puckering:

The sewing thread shrinkage puckering problem occurs when sewing thread shrinkage more than the fabric. This problem can be risible when the fabric is wetted or washed or ironed with the seam. Normally, this problem arises in the case of cotton sewing thread. In this case, it is better to use polymer sewing thread or core-spun sewing thread to reduce the puckering problems. Other hand, in the case of cotton sewing thread, the stitch should be kept slightly loose for sewing thread.