Woven and Knit Garments Consumption in Apparel Industry
Reeha Ismail Sayyad
Asst. Editor
Textile Merchandising
Assistant Professor
CNCVCW SIBER,
Kolhapur, India.
E-mail: afsana.sayyad@gmail.com
Woven and Knit Garments:
Apparel costing in the garment making process is one of the most complex procedures. There are a lot of things that go into costing/pricing a single piece of clothing. Purchasing grey fabric, cost of dyeing, knitting, printing, transport cost, packaging, banking, cost of trims, accessories and overheads used all are included in it. Once the sample is approved and pattern is developed, the amount of fabric that is fabric consumption in that particular order is calculated. The fabric cost consists 60-80% of the total garment making cost. The consumption of fabric for woven garments is determined in yards and for knitted garments is determined in kilograms.
Woven Garments Consumption:
For woven garments, the gram per liner meter (GLM) of the fabric plays a vital role in costing the ends per inch and picks per inch is taken into account. The bigger the beam length the lesser will be the cost of weaving. Hench the beam size can increase or decrease the cost of making a garment. The kinds of weaving like plain, satin and twill and sort of machinery used for the particular garments like dobby, jacquard, and loom influence the weaving cost.
Woven Fabric
Gram per Liner Meter (GLM):
GLM is denoted by gram per liner meter. It is a liner density measurement unit which gets used for woven fabrics. We need to calculate this term to get an actual fabric cost using following formula.
Formula:
GLM = (EPL+PPL) X 0.2615X (width of fabric in centimeters)
average count
Terms:
EPI =Ends per inch
PPI = Picks per inch
FABRIC WIDTH =Width of fabric in centimeters (1” = 2.54 cms)
AVERAGE COUNT = It is a count of warp yarn and weft yarn
Formula:
AVERAGE COUNT = WARP YARN + WEFT YARN
2
Knit Garments Consumption:
Similarly for knitted garments, the gram per square meter (GSM) is taken into account. The type of machines, fabrics and blends and configurations (single jersey, double jersey fabric) used for knitting the fabric of the garments affects the price of making.
Knit Garments
Grams per Square Meter (GSM):
GSM stands for grams per square meter. It is the weight of the fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter. The weight of fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the weight per unit area or the weight per unit length. We can calculate GSM for woven and knitted fabric using one of the following methods.
Formula:
GSM = Average Sample Weight X 10000
Sample fabric Area
Formula for using GSM cutter as follows-
GSM= Average Swatch Weight X 100
GSM Cutter:
GSM Cutter
- Cut the fabric with GSM ROUND cutter
- Weight the Fabric With electric Balance
- The cut sample is 100 square centimeters so that the weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.
Mohammad Noor Nabi, known by his author name Noor Ahmed Raaz, is a PhD Fellow at Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) and the Founder & Editor of Textile Merchandising. He is also an Assistant Professor and Chairman of the Textile Engineering Department at a renowned university in Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research focuses on textile innovation and sustainability. Awarded the Research & Development Fellowship twice from the Ministry of Science & Technology in Bangladesh, Noor Ahmed Raaz is dedicated to advancing textile engineering through education, research, and industry collaboration. For inquiries or collaborations, contact Noor Ahmed Raaz via email at textilemerchandising1@gmail.com or WhatsApp at +8801673758271.