Selection of Interlining in Garments Dyeing
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (CU)
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
A.M.C.S Textile Ltd (AEPZ)
The Interlining is one kind of supportive trims which is mainly applied between two layers of fabric for maintaining the actual shape and comfort of garments. This process is done with the sewing, fusing or use adhesive. Fusible Interlining and non fusible interlining these two types of interlining are used in the garment industry. The interlining is an essential accessory in garments which is specially used in used in collar, cuffs, Shoulder and the front part of coats, jacket, and heavy garments. Different types of interlining are used in the garments manufacturing process. Therefore, the selection of interlining is a very important issue during garments dyeing. Now I would like to talk about the selection of interlining in garments dyeing.
Selection of Interlining in Garments Dyeing:
In the case of garments dyeing interlining should be selected very carefully. Because, during process due to the action of temperature and chemical, performance of interlining may be destroyed this may affect on the performance of the garments.
To avoid such problem interlining should be selected carefully having the following properties-
Take-up%: Interlining should be pick-up equal amount of dye solution as the garments fabric pick-up.
Bond Strength: Interlining should type that, bond strength between interlining fabric and garments fabric is not interrupted during dyeing process.
Handle Properties: Handle properties of interlining such as smoothness, softness, etc should be as per expected level.
Resin: Resin used in interlining may pick-up dye. In that case color depth should not arise.
Selection of interlining in garments dyeing depends on role of different component of interlining during Dyeing. Therefore, the treatments of interlining of different component of garments are very important. Here given a few essential treatment of interlining during garments dyeing are as below
1. Base Material of Interlining:
Normally base material made of cotton is preferred for garments dyeing. Because, in that case interlining and garments fabric will be made of same fiber. Normally the base material is woven, but if it is non-woven then it should have following properties-
- If any binder is used during fabric production should not create any problem during dyeing.
- Non-woven fabric should not change its dimension during processing.
- All the property of non-woven fabric should be unaffected during garments dyeing.
2. Base Material Finishing Process:
Normally base material is finished with resin. Dimethylol urea base resin is not suitable in case of garments dyeing. Due to, it may create problem in dye preparation. Low formaldehyde is suitable here for the finishing process of base material.
3. Resin Coating:
Various types of resin may be used for coating. Sometime problems may be raised in fused area during garments dyeing. For example, blister may form during dyeing process if scattered method is used for resin application due to the large particle size. In that case dry dot coating system is better. If the bond strength between fabric and interning is affected by chemical and temperature, the interlining and fabric may be spitted. To avoid such problem the resin should be hydrophobic type and melting temperature of resin should be above 140 C. polyethylene and polyolefin type resin works well in this process.