Sewing Problems in Apparel Industry
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (CU)
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
A.M.C.S Textile Ltd (AEPZ)
Good seam appearance and performance is related to various factors of stitch, seam, feed system, needle thread. If we understand the stitch quality, then we will also control sewing problems. Sewing quality is measured by stitch size, stitch tension, stitch sequence, elasticity, resilience, elongation, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive strength etc.
Sewing defect can be classified into three different groups-
A. Problems of Stitch Formation
B. Problems of Seam Puckers
C. Fabric Damage at the seam line
A. Problems of Stitch Formation:
There are different types of problems are found during sewing operation in apparel industry. It can be classified into following types.
- Slipped stitch
- Staggered stitch
- Unbalanced stitch
- Variable stitch density
- Frequent thread breakage
1. Slipped stitch:
Stitches in the seam are present in a regular process. If the interlooping or interlacing between the top and bottom thread of stitch is not taking place or missed, then it is known as slipped stitch or skipped stitch. This is more harmful in case of chain stitch than lock stitch.
2. Staggered stitch:
If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line, then staggered stitches formed. This problem is a common problem in garments sewing floor. Needle vibration, wrong adjustment of needle and thread are the main reason of this problem.
3. Unbalanced stitch:
If the interlacement of the needle thread and bobbin threads are not taken place at the middle (i.e. if the interlacement is taken place in the upper or lower position from the middle) of two layers of fabrics, then unbalanced stitch is produced. This type of defect is found in lock stitch machine.
4. Variable stitch density:
If the number of stitches variations in the seam line per unit length, then variable stitch density occurred. The low pressure of pressure foot, uneven feeding, too much tension of thread are the major reason of variable stitch density.
5. Frequent thread breakage:
Frequent thread breakage is common sewing problem in sewing floor. This is the breakage of thread again and again during sewing, which take more time and harmful for production. Specially, when there needs to open out of sewing to solve the problem.
B. Problems of Seam Puckers:
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C. Fabric Damage at the seam line:
Click here for see more information about Fabric Damage at the Seam Line