Selection of Interlining in Garment Dyeing: Key Considerations

Selection of Interlining in Garments Dyeing 

Noor Ahmed Raaz
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
Owner and Editor in Chief Textile Merchandising
Asst. Prof., Department of Textile Engineering
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: textilemerchandising1@gmail.com

 

Introduction:

Interlining is one kind of supportive trim that is mainly applied between two layers of fabric for maintaining the actual shape and comfort of garments. This process is done with the sewing, fusing, or use adhesive. Fusible Interlining and nonfusible interlining are the two types of interlining used in the garment industry. The interlining is an essential accessory in garments, which is specially used in used in collar, cuffs, Shoulder and the front part of coats, jackets, and heavy garments. Different types of interlining are used in the garment manufacturing process. Therefore, the selection of interlining is a very important issue during garment dyeing. Now,I would like to talk about the selection of interlining in garment dyeing.

Selection of Interlining in Garments Dyeing:

In the case of garments dyeing interlining should be selected very carefully. Because, during process due to the action of temperature and chemical, performance of interlining may be destroyed this may affect on the performance of the garments.

To avoid such a problem, interlining should be selected carefully, having the following properties-

Take-up%:  Interlining should pick up an equal amount of dye solution as the garment’s fabric pick-up.

Bond Strength: Interlining should type that, bond strength between interlining fabric and garments fabric is not interrupted during dyeing process.

Handle Properties: Handle properties of interlining such as smoothness, softness, etc should be as per expected level.

Resin: Resin used in interlining may pick up dye. In that case, color depth should not arise.

The selection of interlining in garment dyeing depends on the role of different components of interlining during Dyeing. Therefore, the treatments of interlining of different components of garments are very important. Here given a few essential treatment of interlining during garments dyeing are as below

1. Base Material of Interlining:

Normally, base material made of cotton is preferred for garment dyeing. In that case, interlining and garment fabric will be made of the same fiber. Normally, the base material is woven, but if it is non-woven, then it should have the following properties-

• If any binder is used during fabric production should not create any problem during dyeing.
• Non-woven fabric should not change its dimensions during processing.
• All the properties of non-woven fabric should be unaffected during garment dyeing.

2. Base Material Finishing Process:

Normally, the base material is finished with resin. Dimethylol urea base resin is not suitable in the case of garment dyeing. Due to, this it may create problems in dye preparation. Low formaldehyde is suitable here for the finishing process of the base material.

3. Resin Coating:

Various types of resin may be used for coating. Sometimes problems may be raised in fused area during garment dyeing. For example, blister may form during the dyeing process if scattered method is used for resin application due to the large particle size. In that case dry dot coating system is better. If the bond strength between fabric and interning is affected by chemical and temperature, the interlining and fabric may be spitted. To avoid such problem the resin should be hydrophobic type and melting temperature of resin should be above 140^oC. polyethylene and polyolefin type resin works well in this process.