Common Apparel Sewing Machines and Their Key Features in the Clothing Industry
Noor Ahmed Raaz
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
Owner and Editor in Chief Textile Merchandising
Asst. Prof., Department of Textile Engineering
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: mnnabi@adust.edu.bd
Sewing Machine:
We all know that the sewing department is the heart of the apparel industry. Therefore, the sewing machine plays an important role in manufacturing a complete garment. The sewing machine is mostly used to stitch fabric or other materials to attach jthem ointly with the help of threads. Different types of sewing machines are required for joining different parts of garments. Now, I am going to discuss different types of sewing machines and their features.
Types of Sewing Machines:
- Over Lock (O/L) Machine
- Plain Needle (P/N) Lock Stitch or Single Needle (S/N) Lock Stitch
- Flat Lock (F/L)
- Bartack Machine (BTK)
- Button Hole (B/H)
- Button Attach
- Kansai Machine (KAN)
1. Over Lock (O/L) Machine:
Needle: 2, 1
Lopper: 2
Thread: 4, 3
Stitch Type: Cover Stitch
Operation: Side Seam, In Seam, Back & Front rise, Lace join, Neck join, Shoulder join, Body hem, Elastic join Collar join, Cuff join, Piping, Bottom join.

Over Lock Machine (O/L)
2. Plain Needle (P/N) Lock Stitch or Single Needle (S/N) Lock Stitch:
Needle: 1 or sometimes 2
Bobbin Case: 1
Thread: 2, 1
Stitch Type: Lock Stitch
Operation: All Tuck, Poker Join, Placket join, Placket 1/16 Top Sites, Placket Box, Placket kasha, Zipper T/P Sites, Side Band Join& T/P, Loop Join.

Single Needle (S/N) Lock Stitch
3. Flat Lock (F/L):
Needle: 3, 2, 1 (high-3)
Lopper: 1
Zing jag: 1 (Not All Use)
Thread: 5,4,3,2
Stitch Type: Chain Stitch
Operation: Churl Hem, Top sites Seam, Neck Top sites, Piping, Body Hem.

Flat Lock Machine (F/L)
4. Bartack Machine (BTK):
Needle: 1
Bobbin Case: 1
Thread: 2
Stitch Type: Straight stitch
Operation: Heavy sewing for a small length of garment parts such as waist band, pocket edges, etc.

Bartack Machine (BTK)
5. Buttonhole (B/H):
Needle: 1
Bobbin Case: 1
Thread: 2
Operation: Button hole

Button Hole (B/H)
6. Button Attach:
Needle: 1
Bobbin Case: 1
Thread: 2
Type of stitch: chain stitch or lock stitch
Operation: Button joins with body

Button Attach
7. Kansai Machine (KAN):
Needle: 2 (high 12)
Lopper: 2 (hig-12)
Thread: Use of 4 (above 2)
Stitch Type: multi-needle chain stitch
Operation: Especially used for sewing waist bands.

Kansai Machine (KAN)

Mohammad Noor Nabi, known by his author name Noor Ahmed Raaz, is a PhD Fellow at Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) and the Founder & Editor of Textile Merchandising. He is also an Assistant Professor and Chairman of the Textile Engineering Department at a renowned university in Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research focuses on textile innovation and sustainability. Awarded the Research & Development Fellowship twice from the Ministry of Science & Technology in Bangladesh, Noor Ahmed Raaz is dedicated to advancing textile engineering through education, research, and industry collaboration. For inquiries or collaborations, contact Noor Ahmed Raaz via email at textilemerchandising1@gmail.com or WhatsApp at +8801673758271.