Thread Size vs Needle Size vs Fabric Thickness

Thread Size vs Needle Size vs Fabric Thickness  

Noor Ahmed Raaz
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing
Owner and Editor in Chief Textile Merchandising
Asst. Prof., Department of Textile Engineering
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: textilemerchandising1@gmail.com

When it comes to sewing, achieving a flawless and durable stitch involves selecting the right combination of thread size, needle size, and fabric thickness. These three factors play a crucial role in determining the quality of your finished project, from tension to the final look of your work. In this article, we’ll break down how these elements interact and how to choose the best combination for your sewing needs.

Generally, sewing machine needle size depends on the fabric thickness and thread thickness or size. A proper combination of thread size, needle size, and fabric thickness is essential for sewing operations on garment floors. Therefore, the right needle and thread size are needed to join the fabric in the apparel industry. In the garment industry, a standard size ratio between thread size, needle size, and fabric thickness is followed for smooth sewing operation. I want to discuss those relationships on the garment sewing floor.

1. Thread Size: What You Need to Know

Thread size refers to the thickness or diameter of the sewing thread. It is crucial to choose the right thread size for your project, as it can affect both the stitch appearance and the durability of the seam.

Common Thread Sizes:

• Fine Thread (e.g., 60 wt): Ideal for delicate fabrics like silk, tulle, or lace. It creates fine, subtle stitches and works well on lightweight textiles.
• Standard Thread (e.g., 40 wt): This is the most commonly used thread size, suitable for a wide range of fabrics, from lightweight to medium-weight materials. It works well for general-purpose sewing and quilting.
• Heavy Thread (e.g., 12 wt): Used for heavy-duty sewing projects, like leather, denim, or canvas. It creates thicker, more visible stitches and is perfect for projects requiring a robust seam.

2. Needle Size: Finding the Right Fit

Needle size refers to the diameter of the needle’s shaft and the size of the needle’s eye. Selecting the right needle size is essential to ensure smooth sewing and avoid damaging your fabric.

Common Needle Sizes:

• Small Needles (e.g., 60/8, 70/10): These are best used with fine fabrics like silk or lightweight cotton. The small size ensures minimal damage to delicate textiles.
• Medium Needles (e.g., 80/12, 90/14): Suitable for most fabrics like cotton, linen, and polyester blends. These are the standard needles that most sewers use for everyday projects.
• Large Needles (e.g., 100/16, 110/18): Used for heavier fabrics like denim, canvas, or leather. The larger needle size ensures it can handle the thicker, tougher materials without breaking or bending.

3. Fabric Thickness: The Foundation of Your Project

Fabric thickness is an essential consideration when choosing thread and needle sizes. Fabrics vary greatly in weight and texture, so selecting the right combination ensures the best stitching results. Thicker fabrics, like denim or upholstery material, require stronger needles and thicker threads. Lighter fabrics, such as cotton or chiffon, benefit from finer needles and lighter threads.

Fabric Thickness Categories:

• Lightweight Fabrics: These include materials like chiffon, tulle, and lightweight cotton. For these fabrics, use a fine thread (like 60 wt) and a small needle (around size 70/10 or 80/12) to ensure smooth, precise stitching without damaging the material.
• Medium-weight Fabrics: Common fabrics in this category include quilting cotton, linen, and medium-weight polyester. A standard thread (such as 40 wt) paired with a medium-sized needle (80/12 or 90/14) works best for these materials.
• Heavyweight Fabrics: Denim, canvas, leather, and upholstery fabrics fall into this category. Heavy threads (like 12 wt) and large needles (100/16 or 110/18) are necessary to penetrate these tough textiles and provide a sturdy, secure stitch.
  

  Thread Size vs Needle Size vs Fabric Thickness(www.texttilemerchandising.com)

How to Choose the Right Combination

The key to successful sewing lies in selecting the right combination of thread size, needle size, and fabric thickness. Here’s a general guideline to help you make the best choice:

1. Lightweight Fabric (e.g., chiffon, tulle, or cotton):
   • Thread: Fine (60 wt)
   • Needle: Small (70/10 or 80/12)
2. Medium-weight Fabric (e.g., quilting cotton, linen, or polyester):
   • Thread: Standard (40 wt)
   • Needle: Medium (80/12 or 90/14)
3. Heavyweight Fabric (e.g., denim, canvas, or leather):
   • Thread: Heavy (12 wt)
   • Needle: Large (100/16 or 110/18)

Relation between Thread Size, Needle Size, and Fabric Thickness:

The following table shows the relationship between thread size, needle size and fabric thickness, which is most necessary to know for proper sewing.